Working on Colors

Color Charts

I’ve been very busy at the bench working on lipstick colors. Notice the color wheel on the corkboard – this comes in very handy when trying to imagine which direction the skin undertone will interact with the lipstick color. Yellow and red make orange – to move it to a more neutral color add blue – yellow, red and blue make brown. The brown can have an overtone of pink, red, brown, etc. depending on the ratios of pigments. This is my rudimentary understanding of color mixing and I refer to that color wheel often.

One of the challenges faced with lipstick color artists is the lack of pure color. Most of the pigments have their own undertone, this has to be determined with a drawdown on white paper and then adjustments are made using this data.

Here is a tip: if you want to determine the undertone of your lipstick, lightly rub it on a piece of white paper. Here you can see if more yellow or blue appears. A lipstick can look like it has a blue tone, but when rubbed onto the white paper, the yellow will be able to be seen. If you have a ruddy red undertone, your red skin undertone will combine with the yellow undertone of the lipstick to create orange. If you have a problem with your lipstick turning orange on you, try to find lipstick with a more blue undertone. When you put on lipstick, you’re a color artist too – combining the undertone of the lipstick with your own natural undertone for your own unique color blend.

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